![]() What`s different in CMY (RA-4) vs RGB (scanning)? 3 layers (4 for Fuji) - 3 corresponding filters, here and there. I can't see why this couldn't be done with the RA-4 process. It only substracts the orange mask an inverts the image. I got fine results with the digibase kit at room temp and didn't need PS because my scan prog (Vuescan) already did it. It got uncorrectable, even in photoshop, at 68F. The cooler the process, the worse the color. Later by another guy: "I did a practical test and posted it in the thread about the Digibase chemicals using the various times and temps they give. The original instruction temps go down to 25 ☌ and I extrapolated them to 20 ☌. That's exactly the basis for my temp/time chart and it works for me. "im into developing my own film and the rollei digibase kits i use are come with instructions for lower temps." Hi Wayne, read the first post of your link: I store the developer in a reused dark green schnaps bottle (no plastic!) and spray on a pfffft of lighter gas for oxigene protection. Final note: 1 development of 135 film coasts me less than 50 Eurocents, assuming I can develop 10 films with 1 liter. Forget the writing to the right: no presoak, bleach 6 minutes, fix according to clearing test (twice the time).īecause you treat all color neg films and cross developed slide films the same, it's the easiest procedure imho. X-axis: time (minutes), y-axis: temperature in ☌elsius. ahhh - darkroom:Ĭ41-temp-chart by Imagesfrugales, on Flickr Here is the ultimate sheet, hanging at the wall of my toi. I get superclean dust- and scratchfree negs that are dry within half an hour.Īnd here is the best: everything is done at room temperature, every film (brand, speed etc.) is treated the same way, only the developing time is altered according to the room temperature. For the last bath - the stabilizer - I take 2 drops of dish detergent in the last rinse and wipe the film carefully with a folded paper tissue. Then rinse as you would do with a b/w film. ![]() Have I to say that teaspoon measuring is not allowed ? :-DĪll right, we have mixed our developer or have bought readymade kits- I use the old "undestroyable" bleach then and fix with b/w fixer.īetween the bathes I rinse twice with tap water to protect the following bathes. Such a precision scale is available for about 10 - 20 bucks, $, € or pounds. Kitchen scales with 1 g resolution are unsuitable. This is a must if you want reliable results, period.Ģnd: you need a scale with 0.01 g resolution if you want reliable results. That's very important, because it affects the pH and the right pH is needed for proper colors. 2 things must be stressed:ġst: you need anhydrous soda/carbonate, otherwise you must re-calculate, if unsure what you have in hands make the heating test as explained on my Caffenol blog: I didn't use heated water but at room temp and everything diluted fine. 2.5 g (left out because I use destilled water)ĬD-4. 37.5 g (replaced by me with 29 g sodium carbonate anhydrous aka washing soda waterfree) Here's the recipe I found at Apug which has blessings from some highly reputated members there who definately know what they are talking about. Until I finally bought the missing raw chemicals I needed to mix the developer at home from scratch. When the color developer was used up I made a break and again used a lab service. The bleach is still in use, it simply doesn't go down and can be regenerated by shaking with air to re-oxigenate the solution. 3 different concentrates to mix the developer, then bleach bath and fixer bath. When I bought my first (and only -)) C-41 kit I read about developing at room temperature and it worked very fine, it was the so-called digibase kit from macodirect. I always was sceptical that color negative development had to be scientifically exact with a temperature regulation of centi-degrees and so on. ![]() Developing color negative film is easier that developing b/w film, no matter if you use commercial kits or a homemade developer.
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